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Finger Lakes 315-232-6465
Syracuse 315-306-3656

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Finger Lakes 315-232-6465
Syracuse 315-306-3656
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Frequently Asked Questions About Radon Gas Testing or Mitigation

Home > Radon > Radon FAQs

What is radon gas and how does it get into my home?

Radon is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas that forms naturally in the earth. As the earth shifts,
fissures and veins carrying radon gasses open and close. When those gasses release from the
earth into open air they dissipate. When the openings are under your home they run into your
slab/foundation. The gasses then enter through cracks, gaps and holes. Once inside, the gas can
become concentrated and dangerous.

What is an acceptable level of radon?

While there are no “safe” levels for sustained radon exposure, the EPA (Environmental
Protection Agency) recommends considering mitigation at levels of 2.0-3.9 pCi/l and considers
levels of 4.0 pCi/l or higher to be the level at which to mitigate.

How do I test my home?

An EPA certified Radon Testing Company will place an Activated Charcoal Canister in your
home for a minimum of 48 hours and submit the testing to a laboratory for results.

How often should I test my home?

EPA guidelines state a home should be tested every 2-5 years. More often if renovations that
involve the foundation have been done. This is because changes in the passageways in soil (high
water, construction, weather conditions etc.) as well as changes in the building condition (energy
improvements) can cause radon levels in the home to vary and change.

My neighbor has high level (low level) results. Should I have a test conducted?

Every home is different as are the fissures and veins that carry radon gasses under each home
different. What your neighbor’s test results are should be irrelevant to whether you test your
home or not. There are areas of New York that historically have high radon levels (Cortland
County and Yates County are two), but it is our opinion that every home should be tested to
confirm the radon gas levels.

My home is brand new (very old) why would I need a test done?

The terrific weatherization options now available for a home may actually be worse for dealing
with radon gasses. Because the home is so efficiently sealed any gasses that enter are essentially trapped. Whereas older homes with loose caulking, ill-fitting doors and windows and poor
insulation actually allow the radon gasses to dissipate.

What is the average installation cost?

There are several factors that can contribute to cost such as slab condition, composition of soil
under slab and whether you have a crawlspace or a full basement. Call us for a free, onsite
estimate.

How does a system work?

A radon mitigation system works by depressurizing the area underneath a basement slab or vapor
barrier. The system draws the radon polluted air out of the house and expels the gas above the
roof line with the use of a radon approved fan.

How long does it take to install a radon mitigation system?

A typical installation takes a single day to complete, however, there are instances where a second
day is needed.

How will the installation change the ‘face’ of my home?

We do our best to keep the aesthetics of the home intact. If it is possible, we run the PVC piping
alongside a chimney, we try to keep the piping in the rear of the home or we can paint the PVC
to match the home’s color.

Why do my pipes gurgle?

There are a couple of possibilities:

  • When the water table surrounding your home is high it may collect under your foundation/slab.
    The radon fan is powerful and can pull water into the pipes. A sump pump can help.
  • The radon mitigation system can pull humidity from the basement and water can collect in the
    pipes. A dehumidifier can help.
  • The pitch of the pipes may be wrong and not allowing water to run off properly. Call us for an
    inspection.

What are the maintenance requirements after installation?

There is no maintenance with a radon mitigation system. There are just two ‘moving parts’ to a
radon mitigation system – the fan (which has a 5-year warranty) and a manometer. The
manometer is a u-shaped glass tube filled with a liquid (colored for easy reading) that measures
pressure. The liquid levels of the manometer should not be level but offset. If they are level the system is not working and you should contact your installer. If the fan is not working you should
contact your installer.

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  • Home
  • Waterproofing
    • Video Gallery
    • Sump Pumps
    • Dehumidification
    • Leaking Crack Repair
    • Cause of Basement Leaks
    • FAQ
  • Drainage
    • Video Gallery
    • Clogged Drainage System
    • GrateTrench™
    • GrateDrain™
  • Foundation Repair
    • Foundation Waterproofing
    • Bowing Walls
  • Crawl Spaces
    • Crawl Space Vapor Barrier
    • Crawl Space Waterproofing
    • Crawl Space Ventilation
    • Crawl Space Dehumidification
  • Sump Pumps
    • Video Gallery
    • GrateSump™
    • GrateSump™ Plus
    • GrateSump™ Plus 2
    • Battery Backup Systems
  • Moisture Control
    • Video Gallery
    • Dehumidifiers
    • Dehumidification 101
  • Mold
    • Mold 101
    • Mold and Allergens
    • Mold Prevention
    • Mold Spores Prevention
    • Dry Rot
    • Dust Mites
    • Humidity and Allergens
    • House Mold Prevention
  • Radon
    • Radon FAQs
    • Video Gallery
  • About Us
    • Photo Gallery
    • EcoSpect Difference
    • Hours & Location
      • Romulus
      • Syracuse
      • Rochester
    • Financing Options
    • HBC Certificate
    • Coronavirus Statement
    • Healthy Basement Contractor
    • Video Gallery
    • Blog
    • Careers
    • Awards & Affiliations
    • Reviews
    • Completed Jobs
    • Meet The Team
    • Contact Us